Downlight Beam Angle Guide: Narrow, Medium & Wide Beams
This downlight beam angle guide explains how narrow, medium, and wide beams affect light distribution, spacing, glare, and visual comfort in real spaces. In practice, this guide shows when to use narrow, medium, and wide beams with clear examples. It is written for homeowners, architects, and contractors who want downlights that look clean on site, not just on paper. How Beam Angle Changes What You See A downlight does not “fill a room” by default. It creates a cone of light. The beam angle controls how tight or how wide that cone is. The same lumen package can look punchy, flat, or uncomfortable depending on the optics. For a clear technical definition, see the IES definition of beam angle. As a practical starting point for interior downlights: Visual comparison: narrow, medium, and wide downlight beam spreads at the same ceiling height. What “narrow vs wide” really means in a room Beam angle is not a style choice. It is a performance choice. It controls contrast, spacing, and visual comfort. As a result, you can use it to guide the eye, reduce fixture count, or avoid uneven bright spots. However, one key point remains: beam angle on a spec sheet is only part of the story. Real results depend on ceiling height, trim type, shielding, and the exact IES file for the fixture. Practical Rules for Choosing Beam Angles Use beam angle with three checks: ceiling height, spacing and the task. This keeps the layout simple and avoids the most common mistakes. Below are real-world examples you can apply immediately: Spacing, scallops, and glare control Beam angle also affects how light “prints” onto walls and ceilings. When downlights sit too close to a wall, you will see scallops. If they are too bright or too open, you can get glare and uncomfortable brightness at eye level. To predict wall scallops before installation, use our visual tool here: Lighting Scallops Visualizations. In addition, it helps you test distance-from-wall and spacing so the pattern looks intentional. When the project matters, the clean way to verify beam angle choices is a photometric check using the fixture’s IES file. This shows actual foot-candle levels, uniformity, and where glare risks appear. Real Examples: What Beam Angle to Use Use these examples as a starting point. They reflect typical design intent. Final selection should still be confirmed with the actual fixture optics and the IES distribution. Use this downlight beam angle guide as a reference when reviewing fixture cut sheets and IES files. 30° vs 60° Downlight Beam Angle: Which One to Choose A 30° beam concentrates light into a tighter area. As a result, it creates higher contrast and stronger highlights. It works well for accents, art, and focused task zones, but it can look spotty if used everywhere. A 60° beam spreads light wider for smoother coverage. In most cases, it reduces hot spots and allows wider spacing. It often works better for lower ceilings and general ambient lighting. Simple rule: use 30° when you want focus and contrast. Use 60° when you want even coverage and comfort. If you are unsure, start with a wider beam for the base layer, then add tighter beams only where you need emphasis. In many cases, if your layout looks “busy,” it is often a beam choice issue, not a fixture quality issue. Too many narrow beams create many bright circles. Too many wide beams can flatten the room and reduce visual hierarchy. Common Beam Angle Mistakes to Avoid What is a downlight beam angle? A downlight beam angle is the spread of the main light cone leaving the fixture. Narrow angles concentrate light into a smaller area, while wide angles distribute light across a larger area. What’s the difference between 30° and 60° downlight beam angles? A 30° beam creates a tighter, brighter spot with higher contrast. A 60° beam spreads light wider for smoother coverage, which often reduces hot spots and allows wider spacing. Is 30° or 60° better for general lighting? In most rooms, 60° (or 40°–60°) works better as a general lighting base layer because it looks more even. Use 30° for accents, feature areas, and targeted task zones. How does beam angle affect spacing between downlights? Wider beams usually allow larger spacing because the light overlaps more. Narrow beams need tighter spacing to avoid dark gaps and visible circles on the floor. Does a wider beam reduce glare? Sometimes, but not always. Glare depends on cutoff, shielding, and brightness at typical viewing angles. However, very tight beams can create stronger contrast and more noticeable hot spots if placement is not controlled. Why do I see scallops on the wall from my downlights? Scallops appear when downlights are placed too close to a wall or spaced in a way that creates a repeating pattern. Beam angle and distance-from-wall both change the scallop shape and intensity. Get a Professional Photometric Plan Key Takeaways If you want a layout that installs clean and hits real light level targets, Stetra Lighting can model your fixtures and verify beam angles with photometric calculations. Use the scallops tool to test wall patterns, and reach out when you need a full plan that is ready for construction.
Downlight Beam Angle Guide: Narrow, Medium & Wide Beams Read More »










